http://in-japan.jp/ In Japan - A Foreigner's Guide to Japan - Living in Japan, Working in Japan, Dining in Japan, Sightseeing in Japan - Tokyo Japan - Osaka Japan - Okinawa Japan - Japanese Culture - Japanese History - Japanese Language en Copyright 2008 Mon, 04 Feb 2008 15:14:04 +0900 http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/ http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss ひどい風邪をひいている。。。I've catch cold...and it is the worst one among several series of influenza I've had before in my life...Seems like my body is still in the stage of adapting to the winter condition..cold and dry...I still managed to attend my everyday routine to the kenkyuushitsu but with less experimental activity and more to surfing and reading journals.. My bad influenza starts with only a few cough but it get worst day by day..By recommendation from a lab friend, I bought Benzablock, self-remedy lozenges (24　in a box) for cough and flu with natural herbs costing 900Yen at the Coop's pharmacy. They even bought me some kairo カイロ, sticky patches like koyok in Malaysia but you stick it outside your inner (not directly on skin) and it will transmit heat to your body so that you will feel pleasant in the cold winter. A few attempts seems promising but nevertheless, I still have running nose and dry cough (It was real bad when I'm accidentally awaken in the middle of the night just due to coughing and don't really aware when did it ends and continue sleeping). Despite of the never ending cold, I thanked my lab mates a lot for their approaches in trying to make me better. Japanese, although advance in technology and standard of living, still possess the uniqueness of Asian culture in morality and good conduct. This treatment makes me really feel that I'm not that far from home. Another unique character about Japanese is that they will try their best to prevent themselves from being a vector in spreading the virus to other person. This could be done (in case of influenza) by wearing a mask. During winter and rainy season in Japan, you could find almost everyone with influenza or running nose will cover themselves with masks. In spring however, the mask is used to prevent from inhaling pollens, a common phenomenon where thousands were warded due to allergic reaction and this has become a common reason to escape school and work. There is even a USB-attached mask on sale (please refer this catchy advertisement at my blog ilhamica.blogspot.com). Thanks to God that I rarely fell sick but when I got hit once, it will be a heavy one.I personally feel that this fight with influenza and dry cough will never ends without an antibiotic as it keeps on haunting me for two weeks. So one day, I and Asmadi (another Malaysian friend in Energy Science doing phd trying to cure his frequently nose bleeding) seek consultation at the Kyoto University Student's Clinic (same with Klinik Mahasiswa in UM but with better service). After filling the all-Nihongo form (luckily I practised writing my faculty address and home address a lot earlier) and helping Madi explaining to the cute nurse about his condition, I got my consultation from a young physician and a friendly nurse asking friendly questions after realizing that I could understand Japanese. As a result, I end up with several medication prescribed by the physician and being charged 390Yen. So affordable for students like me!! (please refer pics). I went back to the kenkyuushitsu and straight consuming the prescribed drug. One of them which comes in a form of white powder in a small packet is sooooooooooooooooooooo bitter!!!!Never had anything like this before!!! As I complained about it, a friend next to my desk Matsuda-san said that there is an old Japanese proverb 良薬口に苦し　Ryouyaku kuchi ni nigashi which means Good medicine tastes bitter. I automatically remembered about a Malay proverb 'pahit seperti hempedu' and later spend some time explaining it to them. May I have a speedy recovery so that everyone in the kenkyuushitsu will be safe from the virus. Hehehe..till then, I need to sleep...seems like the flu pills I consumed earlier has started to react...]]> http://living.in-japan.jp/2008/02/ryouyaku_kuchi_ni_nigashi.html http://living.in-japan.jp/2008/02/ryouyaku_kuchi_ni_nigashi.html Health & Safety health influenza Mon, 04 Feb 2008 15:14:04 +0900 I stumbled upon a rare sight whilst walking along the front of Starbucks at the Hachiko crossing. It was nothing unusual at first as I noticed a group of young, trendy girls having a quick cigarette by the roadside. Soon, my view cleared up and I saw these girls standing by two baby strollers. It was my first experience seeing a “Shibuya Mummy” let alone a Shibuya "Gyaru” mother! For those who are unfamiliar with the slangs of the j-folk, the word “Gyaru” is a katakanised version of the English word “girl” used to describe heavily made-up, brown haired, Japanese girls. These Shibuya mothers walk around with their strollers, a cigarette in hand constantly blowing smoke right in their children's faces. Shocking isn’t it? Well after living in Tokyo for a few years, sights like these often lose their shock value. I was fascinated with these tiny "real life dolls" who were exact replicas of their mothers. These funked-up baby models even had dyed hair like their bigger counterparts. If having children were as trendy as it looked then Japan might possibly have found a way to solve its aging population crisis. The marketing giants of the city should just promote kids as a must have hot accessory for the next season…]]> http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2008/01/shibuya_mummies.html http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2008/01/shibuya_mummies.html Modern Wonders fashion Hachiko Shibuya Starbucks Fri, 04 Jan 2008 12:28:45 +0900 I knew I was gonna get my mind freakin’ blown upon finally making it to Japan. But you can never predict mind-blowing and just how incredible it is, no matter how much you prepare. I thought I had a decent grasp, I got over my mild panic upon first stepping into Kansai airport in a matter of one pack of cheap smokes. The train was easy enough to figure with my pidgin Japanese, and the walk to the hotel was harmless, despite the sudden realisation I was in a ghetto, with my pack, blue eyes and blonde hair acting as a sign round my neck that said very clearly for everyone – ‘tourist.’ So I meet this dude Yoji on my first expedition to the communal lounge, and he asks if I want to go check out the red light district, just a block or so east. I’m feeling consciously naïve so I say yes but not before I go stash my substantial funds for the week back in my room. Paranoia. Trust is something my sleepless brain won’t give, despite his assertion that “safe safe very safe,” and his honest face. He explains that he is a photographer, and he’s come here to take pictures of the city, I roll him a cigarette (a stash I keep as it’s a rarity in Japan) and notice he doesn’t have his camera. Why? He answers as we turn the corner into the Geisha town. Gesturing to the building on the corner I see a Bentley and a Merc parked side by side, all black, tinted windows, with a sign by the garage door that says in Japanese “Do Not Feed The Dogs.” He explains that he saw the dogs earlier that afternoon being taken for a walk, “They weren’t dogs. They were bears.” I look back towards the hotel. “No photos. Here, we are watched as much as we watch.” I miss my bed. Painted lanterns signpost a couple hundred different openings all up and down the street. Ornate curtains form an A-frame round the open doorways where Mum (?) sits to the side and beckons you in. Up on raised platforms, under layers of beautiful fabrics or blankets, and further layers of stunning kimono sit the most gorgeous Girls (?) I have yet seen, in my admittedly short life. The whole scene is fanatastical, straight out of 16th century Japan. Im lost for words, and the banter Koji and I had going suddenly (on my part) cuts. Out. And then out of the blue, my mind gets blown. The most Japanese sight, of my life. I peer into just another opening. And I see Mrs. Claus. Red short shorts and bikini top with fluffy white trim and a freakin’ jolly floppy hat with a big furry bauble. My mouth is still an ’O’ when I think about it. I made it back to the hotel eventually, on shaky legs, and sat around with cheap sake and anything but cheap new friends of a night to calm myself. There’s a combination of tradition and modernity that seems to permeate Japanese life, but I’m yet to see it anywhere so clearly as I did that night. That night my new friends told me Shinsekai is the largest ghetto in Japan. I think its like Coney Island got into a fight with the city streets of Bladerunner, and the aftermath that no one got round to sorting out became Shinsekai. Its beautiful. Pachinko has taken over most main streets, and there’s nothing more hectic than the sound of a million ringing bells, and a million cigarette butts screaming out a cacophony of hope. But down all of the little alleys there’s a goldmine of Mom ‘n’ Pop ‘n’ Yakuza restaurants (that all double up later on as karaoke bars), it takes some nerve and sign language but it is “safe safe very safe.” And there’s not much better than Eel killed and prepared in front of you while some old drunk businessman belts out the most heartfelt rendition of Purple Rain you ever heard. ]]> http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2007/12/shinsekai_geisha_district.html http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2007/12/shinsekai_geisha_district.html Geisha Osaka Shinsekai Sat, 22 Dec 2007 15:20:28 +0900 Yes it’s about that time people! Time to go to your local Tokiwa department store or Lawson and browse the shelves for what a majority of the population will be eating for Shougatsu (New Years). The highly coveted Osechi meal box appears but once a season. Now to the untrained gaijin eye you may wonder why this special new years boxed meal is so expensive… The reason is it’s not a bento but Osechi or prepared traditional dishes of the New Year. Osechi traditionally is a large array of New years dishes cooked and prepared before the actual Shougatsu or first of January. A tomodachi told me that osechi basically started out as cultural festival cuisine but over the years has evolved into a way to ensure mom doesn’t have to cook for a couple of days. Thank the gods, mom, for if you had to prepare all those intricate delicacies I’m sure someone wouldn’t be having a “Happy” New Year. The standard osechi that I have witnessed comes usually in 3 layers of various cedar lined decorative lacquered boxes, each box containing a various multitude of traditional New Years cuisine. The Japanese are big on symbolism and meaning so each dish represents a quality or desired meaning pertinent to the new years celebration. Entirely different from a large bento, Osechi boxes have a large array of preserved, vinegary, candied, and sautéed foods usually containing little or no rice. From personal experience Osechi really has an old world flavor and appeal. All dishes are meant to be eaten cold or at room temperature. The most prevalent dishes included in osechi boxes are: Kuromame or black soybeans sautéed on low heat with sugar, shoyu, and salt representing good health for the coming year. Kazunoko a light yellow extremely crunchy herring roe with basically no taste symbolizing family health and togetherness. Tazukuri is a dish of dried small sardines that have been caramelized in shoyu, sugar, and rice wine; this dish represents the wishes for a bountiful coming year. Kamaboko are fishcakes made of various sizes, and colors usually pink/yellow with white symbolizing the first sunrise of the new years day. Ikura or salmon roe large and orange like the rising Japanese sun these symbolize the coming of the New Year and family togetherness. Konbumaki is a seaweed roll consisting of carrot, burdock, pork or salmon, sautéed in soy, sugar, and dashi representing a joyous or happy occasion. Fu or wheat gluten colored and shaped into various festive designs. Kimpira or burdock root (gobo) sautéed with carrots soy, sugar, and rice wine. Lotus root or rinkon either in a namasu or vinegar type dish or soy sautéed. Various nimono or vegetables such as daikon (radish), watercress, and green beans usually pickled. The Tai fish or sea bream usually steamed or sautéed symbolizes coming wealth. Sweet egg rolls similar to the flavor found on Tamago or egg sushi but rolled up into a more decorative state are also an osechi staple. The price of osechi varies greatly throughout Japan. The store bought types can be furnished and bought for around $75-$100 in any department or convenience store. If having a traditional chef create a truly authentic masterpiece the price can run into thousands of dollars. To the Japanese, seeing the Osechi advertisements around town signifies the closing of the year and the New Years celebrations, which are eminently around the corner. Osechi is definitely one dish that a gaijin should try for that old world Japanese flavor. Just a reminder it’s meant to last 3 days instead of just one so don’t think that it all has to disappear quickly. Since my palate is not as refined as those in Japan my osechi disappears slowly if not at all. Give me a bowl or sekihan and ozone with mochi and I will be just as happy. Happy Bonenkai season to all of you getting drunk and Akemashite Omedetou gozaimasu! ]]> http://dining.in-japan.jp/2007/12/omg_its_osechi_time.html http://dining.in-japan.jp/2007/12/omg_its_osechi_time.html Japanese Food New Years osechi shougatsu Wed, 19 Dec 2007 12:14:54 +0900 When uninitiated people think of Japan they generally think of the centuries old history and rich culture however these things have nothing to do with the daily experience of life in Tokyo. Well my life anyway. Having lived in a guest house in Maruyamacho, the 'dirty' part of Shibuya I have seen and heard a lot of things. Being a young, blonde, white woman in Tokyo you can get yourself into some very strange situations, very easily. It's not that I purposely go out of my way to get into these situations I guess I'm just a general freak magnet. While living in the 'dirty' part of Shibuya last time I regularly walked through pink town to get to the station in the morning. One such morning I was approached by a reasonably normal looking Japanese man who wanted to inquire about the purchase of my dirty pantyhose. Being from a relatively small Australian city my first thought was that he genuinely needed a pair of pantyhose, for example to use as some kind of tie or something. (I had seen such a thing done on a candid camera style show) Oh how naive I was back then! While following me to the station he filled me in on his freaky little secret. After living in Paris for 5 years he developed a foot fetish. He assured me that he didn't want to wear them or anything, just have them for a good sniff. As if that makes him some how less of a freak, I mean yes wearing them would be really weird but sniffing the sweaty, hot, summer foot smell of them is perfectly fine. Apparently according to my freaky, little friend there used to be vending machines in Shibuya where you could purchase such items. However 'they' and I'm not sure who 'they' are have cracked down and so he is now forced to appeal to kind hearted gaijin ladies if he wants to indulge. You might be wondering what the going rate for a pair of used pantyhose might be? Well, this was about 2 years ago now but see through, beige nylons command a hefty 5000 yen while opaque, black tights sell for a lesser amount of 3000 yen. They also must be worn for several hours, preferable in a hotter, sweatier climate. My friend was also interested in negotiating a deal that would involve him licking my toes and feet, yeah right I want my feet to end up in plastic bags in your freezer! Having moved away from the seedy areas of Shibuya this time around I thought I was less likely to have these kind of unusual experiences. Not so! Last weekend I was relieved of several pairs of my finest underwear, welcome back! The panties in question went missing from the communal laundry under my apartment building. Of course there is a chance that it was a fellow gaijin on the hunt for a party of frilly knickers but something tells me it's more likely to have been a passing pervert in the form of a Japanese salary man. No offense of course. The thing I don't really understand is that they were stolen from the dryer and therefore clean. It's just like stealing them from a shop. Only in Japan can you lose a wallet full of cash and get it back untouched yet have to keep your underwear under lock and key. Having turned down an offer of 5000 yen for the pantyhose I'm a little bit annoyed that someone is prancing around their apartment in my undies for free! Upon telling the horrified, male staff member at the rental agency I was informed that a police report would be filed on my behalf. The hunt for the missing panties continues! ]]> http://living.in-japan.jp/2007/12/clean_panties_and_dirty_pantyh.html http://living.in-japan.jp/2007/12/clean_panties_and_dirty_pantyh.html Survival Panties Pervert Shibuya Thu, 06 Dec 2007 11:15:11 +0900 It's not everyday that you wake up and realize that you have over a dozen World Heritage Sites in your backyard. UNESCO assigns natural and cultural sites World Heritage status every year around the world. What makes Japan particularly special is its high concentration of sites. Doting the landscape from Kyushu to Hokkaido, Japan is one of the most culturally relevant countries on the planet. As a foreigner living in Japan I am constantly in awe of my surroundings. From the mundane to the spectacular, I am always in the presence of what I consider beauty. Nowhere are these differences made more apparent then in Japan's relationship with it's own history. A civilization with a richer and more sophisticated history then my own; I often find myself marveling at Japan's longevity. Japan treats it's history with reverence. Specifically, the World Heritage Sites. They are utilized as functioning organisms dedicated to the preservation of Japan's past. One of the most impressive of these sites is Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture. Established in 782 by Shodo Shonin, Rinno -Ji is the oldest temple in all of Nikko. Nikko itself is a vast natural landscape housing some of the oldest and most famous temples in Japan. One of the largest attractions for temple aficionados is the Nikko Tosho-Gu, the tomb of the Shogun Tokugawa. What really sets Nikko apart from other World Heritage Sites is it's seemingly effortless blending of architecture and nature. The Japanese venerate nature as much as any organized religion. So it is no surprise that Nikko blends both the natural and the manmade with such impressive resonance. Nikko's temple system is also one of the few that incorporates both Shinto and Buddhist temples constructed side by side. Kegon Falls and Lake Chūzenji are two of Nikko's most brilliant natural attractions. Kegon Falls is one of the three most famous waterfalls in Japan. Lake Chūzenji feeds the falls as well as provide Nikko with a hydro-electric power source. Nikko is the third largest city in Japan, in terms of sheer area. Nikko is a day trip, but be prepared for an all day excursion. Nikko is as beautiful as it is vast.Taking all of this into consideration as well as Nikko's infamous wild monkey and deer population should be reason enough for a visit. Also, bring a jacket. Nikko's elevation lends itself to a climate similar to that of Hokkaido. Enjoy.]]> http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2007/12/nikko_this_place_is_frickin_hu.html http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2007/12/nikko_this_place_is_frickin_hu.html Historic Locales history Nikko tochigi World Heritage Sites Sun, 02 Dec 2007 16:33:28 +0900 ¥1000 says you have never heard of them. Their name is Psychic Lover (サイキックラバー), and I spent ample time during my two weeks in the anime division at Columbia Music hanging out with them. The guy on the left is Yoffy (pronounced yoh-fee) and the guy on the right is Jo (pronounced Jo). Both guys are 29, though like every Japanese person, they certainly don’t look that old. Yoffy is responsible for the band’s name, and is the composer and lead vocalist for all the duo’s songs. Jo works on lyrics, provides backup vocals, and shreds through wicked guitar solos. Psychic Lover is one of the biggest names in Japanese anime music. They have written theme songs or supporting music for Power Rangers, Witchblade, Gaiking, and Transformers (among many others). Their most recent single is the ending theme for to the current Power Rangers series in Japan, Go Go Adventure Rangers (轟轟戦隊ボウケンジャー). Their song, entitled “On The Road,” rose to number 14 in the Japanese singles chart, an unprecedented feat for an anime song not associated with a Miyazaki film. I met Psychic Lover at Tokyo AM radio as they prepared to participate in a short promotional program (i.e. they were signing tons of release forms and couldn’t do anything but bow and say “hi”). What they were participating in was a pretty average Japanese radio program. Japanese radio stations often feature short twenty minute shows with actors, musicians, and other celebrities who banter comedic dialogue back and forth (comedic if you’re Japanese that is) and introduce the songs that the radio station is currently broadcasting during that half hour block. In turn for hosting, the artists get to plug their latest product and upcoming events a million times on the air. This radio station visit was considerably more relaxed than the previous trip with my Enka division colleagues, where I was hit on constantly by a gay Japanese man. Sakamoto-chan, as he calls himself, was a 22-year old, head-shaven, designer glasses sporting college student (I didn’t catch his major), who became a radio personality sensation thanks to his unique ability to mimic the voice of a perpetually startled, chain-smoking Japanese schoolgirl. He squeals phrases like “You are my everything,” on the radio, complete with the female-specific suffixes. When I first met Sakamoto-chan, he jumped straight into, “You’re cute,” in lieu of a personal introduction, and asked me if I liked boys, only to sigh under his breath, “You probably like girls huh?” But I digress... I spent most of my pre-show time at Tokyo AM talking with one of my new love interests, Nana. She is my age and works for the radio station. She also went to high school in America, so she could speak great English Nana is a second-tier DJ. She was honest, however, and told me that she really only reads that line at the end of the broadcast that goes, “The proceeding program was brought to you by Fukamoto Whale Blubber, Tofu-a-Go-Go, Discount Samurai Swords and listeners like you! I watched Psychic Lover do their show – Nana was in the hot seat right alongside them, though she didn’t say much. The three of them were provided with a script of all their stupid jokes and banter, but were encouraged to improvise by the director in the sound booth. I laughed at a few jokes which were pretty funny (due mostly to the overenthusiastic delivery of Yoffy and Jo who were reminiscent of a really bad stand-up comedy duo). Occasionally, someone would mess up and everyone would pause and retry a bit multiple times. One bit had to be rerecorded several times until Jo could successfully say with a straight face that he pretends to fall asleep on the train in order to rest his head on the shoulder of the lady sitting beside him. This is the kind of humor that had everyone in the sound booth (except me) wiping tears of laughter from their eyes. Psychic Lover’s Director, Mizuhara-san, showed up after the recording process was done and his boisterous presence was almost impossible to ignore. Mizuhara-san is a big man, over six feet tall, with enough fat mass attached to his bones to give him an imposing, jiggly presence. He wore a black suit, had spiky short hair, and wiped sweat from his brow with a purple washcloth. Psychic Lover asked me to read some of their English song lyrics with my native pronunciation. I read the lyrics and was treated to ooohs and aaaaahs and a round of applause. The Japanese people in the room took turns telling me how good my English pronunciation was. I told them that I had been studying English for 22 years, so they shouldn’t feel bad. As Psychic Lover, myself, and Kubota-san (my anime section coworker and Psychic Lover’s representative from Columbia) were readying to go to our post-recording kanpai, the radio station was flooded with young female voice actresses from radio shows, CD albums, and anime programs, all lined up to participate in the next broadcast. This delayed our departure by a few minutes, as all the girls wanted to giggle and fawn over Psychic Lover. All of said voice actresses were sugar and spice and everything “gag me with a spoon” nice. One easy-to-remember voice actress was dressed in a full bubblegum pink-colored track suit with bright green Converse shoes and her hair in tight pigtails. “She is very very adorable,” Mizuhara-san said, pointing to her as she practiced blowing kisses on the couch, despite there being no one to receive the kisses in front of her. She was able to get out her name in English during our meeting, followed by, “I love you!” and assorted giggles. It was all I could do to bow without upchucking my lunch. Death by cuteness; I guess such a thing really does exist in Japan. Psychic Lover, Kubota-san, and I went to a nearby yakitori or skewered assorted meat parts restaurant (it is not that bad when you wash it down with crisp, cold Asahi Super Dry!). Our waiter was super energetic and would fire punches off and say “OKAY” in English whenever anybody ordered. What can I say, Psychic Lover are really fun guys. All smiles. Not only were Yoffy and Jo both super friendly, they seemed genuinely interested in talking and getting to know me. The two of them loved the fact that I could speak Japanese and would gasp in awe when I told them about the different Japanese foods I eat or that I had been to a maid café. As we all drank more, the Japanese side began attempting more English and I attempted to keep my Japanese intelligible after repeated glasses of booze. Kubota-san, who has traveled to Australia and America, asked me questions in English about American culture or my family and I answered him in Japanese. This dual language exchange brought Jo nearly rolling on the floor in laughter. While Yoffy said he had been to Hawaii once, Jo has never left Japan. Though they use a lot of English phrases in their lyrics, it is fair to say that Yoffy and Jo don’t speak English. Yoffy told me that he came up with the name “Psychic Lover” and asked me what it meant in English. At the time, I said that it didn’t really have a meaning, but retrospectively, I guess the band’s name could refer to someone who can psychically predict and fulfill one’s sexual and relationship desires. I think that much would have been lost in translation had I attempted to explain it in Japanese. Jo asked me to explain “L” and “R” sounds to him since Japanese people don’t have these sounds in their language. I always use the example of “lice” versus “rice” to illustrate the pronunciation differences. Jo told me that all Japanese people study English starting from middle school, beginning with the phrase “this is a pen." He explained to me that there is a song you listen to in middle school with the lyrics “this is a pen.” Thus, Yoffy and Jo began singing, “this is a pen – a pen – a pen. This is a pen – a pen – a pen” in unison while swinging their chopsticks back and forth. Before I knew it Kubota-san had joined in and I figured I might as well fill in the harmony. There we were, the four of us, laughing and singing like idiots about ball point pens in the middle of a hole-in-the-wall drinking place in some corner of Tokyo. Though the drinks and food orders stopped soon after...“this is a pen” would linger on through the night air. Life just doesn't get much better. B.E.W.]]> http://living.in-japan.jp/2007/10/this_is_a_pen.html http://living.in-japan.jp/2007/10/this_is_a_pen.html Music & Art alcohol food music yakitori Tue, 30 Oct 2007 05:22:00 +0900 It started out as a trip with Doshisha University students to Osaka Castle and other sightseeing areas around the city. I enjoy these joint sightseeing trips because they are a great opportunity to speak Japanese; however, walking around a crowded city with a group of indecisive students always proves to be trouble. A group of us went to the “electric town” area of Osaka, but didn’t manage to make it into a single electronics shop due to inter-group indecision. We finally ended up at the technologically innovative McDonald’s and ate special edition fries flavored with spicy basil. At least the fries were spot on. The Doshisha University students (probably the male ones) decided that we should all go to a maid café after our sightseeing was done. However, since our group was entirely too big to fit into one small café, we played simultaneous sudden death matches of “jan-ken-pon” (rock-paper-scissors) to decide who would go to which café (there were several in our immediate vicinity, since we were knee-deep in Osaka’s pervert district). I remember the Japanese jan-ken-pon method for deciding things from my first trip to Japan way back when I was a middle-schooler. My opinion on the subject has not changed since then, namely, for my money, Rock-paper-scissors ties with ancient Chinese oracle bone divination as the most idiotic way to decide something. No matter who you are with, it always goes something like this: Everyone huddles around in a circle and throws their choice. If you win, you keep playing – if you lose, you keep playing. After about 10 rounds, to see all the different permutations that can arise between rock, paper, and scissors in a circle of 12, everyone wears stupefied looks on their faces until someone arbitrarily numbers the group members off into smaller sections. Our jan-ken-pon decision making had us standing in a circle in front of a Chinese grocery store for 15 minutes. My group ascended a staircase to the second floor of a nearby building and entered our maid café. You can best imagine a maid café by first picturing a Starbucks where, instead of the green apron-clad baristas, you have young, attractive Japanese females who wear revealing, doily-laden, black and white maid costumes. Also, instead of Starbucks’s signature compilation CDs and wireless hotspots, you can peruse picture books and hand written diaries in sparkly pink and purple colors that feature candid photos and writings from the 20-something year old maids designed to tempt to hearts of socially awkward men. Our maid’s name was Yumi, and according to her sparkly pink picture and profile on the wall, she liked shopping and puppy dogs. Some other Stanford Center kids said they were hit by a "wave of perversion" upon entering the café and started to feel sick to their stomachs, but honestly, I didn’t really want to leave. How can you not love a place where, upon entering, your own personal maid puts her arm around you and escorts you to a table, all the while making small talk in that high pitched squeaky Japanese schoolgirl voice? Just like Cheers – where everybody knows your name! My iced café ole cost six dollars – a small price to pay when you consider that it was personally delivered and prepared by a maid. I rang a tiny green plastic bell and Yumi came over to serve me. She bent down to meet me at eye-level (a difficult task because I was seated in between two other students). “Say stop.” The words fluttered from her puffy, pink lips as she began to pour the sugar syrup into my drink. I heard myself say “stop,” when I yearned to say, “Longer, longer, don’t stop Yumi, don’t stop, more, more, MORE!!!” Yumi looked at me head on - her dark brown eyes glistened in the overhead florescent lighting. She stirred my drink ever so slowly, ever so gently, in a clockwise motion. Once around…twice…now three times. She bends my straw…she removes the covering…I'm done. I was already coming down from my high when Yumi started with the student seated to my left. Then – heartbreak! A middle-aged man on the other side of the café orders some sort of huge ice cream banana parfait. Yumi winks at him slyly with one leg raised as she puts her hands together with index fingers extended. “Bishoooo” she squeals as she shoots an invisible charm from her fingertips across the café towards the banana parfait man. The banana parfait man catches the invisible bolt in his fist and says “Arigato.” What was that!? I clench my fists. Yumi, I thought we had something special babe, I thought we made a connection. I could be wrong, but that clockwise stirring thing went beyond the simple call of the job, the textbook training in how to prepare a caffeinated beverage. That stirring touched me, and now I can’t rid myself of your spell. I watched Yumi deliver the mountainous parfait to the middle-aged man as I sipped my café ole. I finished the drink, but at that point, I couldn’t even taste the sugar syrup anymore. B.E.W.]]> http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2007/10/the_maid_cafe.html http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2007/10/the_maid_cafe.html Maid Cafe Osaka Tue, 30 Oct 2007 05:01:44 +0900 My friend Izumi and I went to a small restaurant in nearby Akasaka to eat poisonous blowfish. Since this may very well be my last blog post before death sets in, I will take a moment to say that I love you all! Blowfish or “fugu” has been a taste treat in Japan since the medieval period. The best time to eat the dish is in the winter, when the fugu get fat in order to survive the icy waters. The dish is famous due to the poisonous toxins found in certain parts of the meat. If not prepared correctly, the fish meat can retain enough poison to cause death if ingested. Every year a handful of people die from fugu poisoning. Since 1958, fugu chefs have been required by the Japanese Ministry of Health to be officially licensed to serve the meat (this license should be visible in any eatery you dine at) and must also cut the flesh with a special, ultra-sharp fugu knife. The most poisonous part of the fish is the liver, which cannot be served in Japan. Also, establishments that specialize in fugu are required to dispose of the fish remains in special waste receptacles, so as to not kill any animals or homeless people by mistake. The preparation and serving of fugu is illegal in the United States, so don’t ask for it at your local sushi bar unless you want people to laugh at you. Izumi didn’t want to go to a fugu joint; that much was clear. She kept asking me to have Korean food or Thai food instead as we set out from work. We arrived at the no-name establishment and went inside. It quickly became apparent that we were the only two people in the entire place, which immediately led Izumi to say “This is because they kill everyone.” I managed a wry grin. Two elderly ladies came out and brought us tea and water. Next, the chef came over to our table and gave us our last bow. He looked to be in his late sixties, which didn’t help the feeling of uneasiness. As long as I pushed the image of a shaky, spotted, wrinkled hand cutting up the fish out of my consciousness, I was fine. Izumi told me she wasn’t going to order fugu because she was afraid, and stayed true to her word, ordering a regular sushi dinner instead. I ordered fugu sashimi and grilled fugu. There was also fugu stew, fugu soup, fugu tempura, and fugu Pocky available as well, but I didn’t have enough cash to sample every type. Fugu is very expensive and the set meal featuring ten different varieties cost well over $150. There was even a tank with live fugu swimming around, so you could see your dinner, or see your murderer for that matter. First up was the fugu sashimi, served with green onions and dipped in soy sauce. The meat was cut paper thin and was white and semi-translucent. For the most part, the texture was extremely soft, but the edges were just firm enough to create a little bit of resistance while chewing. A skilled fugu chef will leave a trace amount of the poisonous section on the top of the meat so that one receives a slight tingly sensation on their tongue while eating. This was the case with my fugu sashimi, which produced a slight tingly sensation similar to the lingering punch of chili oil on one’s lips. The fugu’s natural flavor is fresh and clean, with just a hint of oil. Just FYI, if the tingling sensation turns into a numbing sensation, which leads to a shaking sensation, followed lastly by a cold sensation, then you know that they added too much “flavoring.” I kept trying to offer Izumi thin slices of death sashimi, because I didn’t think it was fair that I should be the only person to die, but she wouldn’t have any, snapping her lips shut and saying “muri muri muri!” which translates into “no way no way NO WAY!” I tried to explain to her the concept of living dangerously, but she shook her head and said “we don’t have that saying in Japanese.” Oh well…a white boy dies, a Japanese girl lives…fair trade. Next up was the equally delicious grilled fugu. The chef brought the dish to my seat. I think he wanted an excuse to ask me where I was from. He also brought his atlas and set it down in front of me, so I pointed out Washington State and the City of Seattle. He grilled the flat pieces of fugu for me over the small flame and than stood within two feet of my face to watch me eat the entire dish. Izumi was holding back laughter at the zoo-worthy Ben Whaley feeding show. Occasionally, I would turn to my side and tell the chef how good I thought everything tasted (this wasn’t a lie). He would beam, smiling ear to ear, and throw one of the remaining pieces of fish onto the fire. Having already conquered basashi (raw horse meat) and kujira (whale meat), fugu was the only remaining item that I wanted to eat before leaving Japan. And honestly, if it does turn out to be my last meal, eating fugu wouldn’t be so terrible of a way to go. B.E.W.]]> http://dining.in-japan.jp/2007/10/tminus_24_life_hours.html http://dining.in-japan.jp/2007/10/tminus_24_life_hours.html Japanese Food Akasaka fugu sashimi Tue, 30 Oct 2007 04:51:20 +0900 Seriously. I have been to Tokyo enough times to feel comfortable finding my way on the JR and the local subway lines. I know which spots in Shinjuku to avoid and where to go to get an amazing bowl of ramen. This city, though, always finds a way to leave me stunned and gawking; with my mouth hanging open like a fresh off the plane gaijin. Senso-Ji temple is a perfect example. Tucked away in a sedate corner of Taito, the temple perfectly encapsulates all that is modern day Japan. The temple is nestled in the neighborhood of Asakusa, and it is sometimes erroneously referred to as Asakusa temple, as opposed to Senso-ji. The temple is the oldest in all of Tokyo and one of it's most significant. The temple is devoted to the bodhisattva Kannon, as well as being attached to an adjacent Shinto shrine. The temple was almost completely destroyed during WWII and was rebuilt after the war. This subsequent rebuilding had come to symbolize Japan's rebirth in the post-war era. Serving to further the temple's symbolic relevance; a tree that was devastated during a bombing raid in WWII; has since had a new tree grow in its place, using the burned out husk as a new home. Probably the most famous image associated with the temple is the "thunder gate". The tremendous paper lantern that ornaments Senso-Ji's main gate is about as post-card worthy as you can get. The dramatic contrast of black ink on red paper is meant to represent the heavenly spectacle of lightening ripping through thunder-clouds. Kaminari-mon can not be missed by anyone visiting the temple. After passing through the main thunder gate, visitors are faced with teeming vendor stalls. Selling everything from kimonos, toys, daruma figures, tempura, soba, and virtually every other form of Omiyage known to man. These stalls have been doing exactly this type of business for centuries. The temple also houses the ever ubiquitous omikuji stalls. For a small price tourists can consult the gods for advice, fortune, and luck. A visit to any temple is never complete without a detour to one of these. Senso-ji perfectly defines the present state of Japan. An emotioanlly stirring juxtaposition of old and new. Ancientness and modernity existing in perfect harmony. The centuries of yesterday slowly baking in the neon glow of the Tokyo of tomorrow. An amazing temple and an easy, welcome pit stop in the tangle of Tokyo. Enjoy.]]> http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2007/10/tokyo_never_ceases_to_amaze.html http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2007/10/tokyo_never_ceases_to_amaze.html Temples, Shrines & Churches Asakusa Temples Tokyo Mon, 15 Oct 2007 21:45:41 +0900 No story of success would be complete without beginning with disaster. For those interested in the clubbing scene in Japan, this article should give a good foray into the unusual world of Tokyo nightlife. To begin, Japan for some reason does not adhere to a set system of street signs or numbered buildings. That being said, finding any location in the major cities is nearly impossible without a guide. We weren't so fortunate. I stated previously that our purpose in Japan was to bring our musical tastes as Dj's to the Asian market. The first step would be to find a few clubs to play at. To tackle this obstacle we tried a number of approaches. The first was to email every club in the greater Tokyo region with resumes, which proved unfruitful. The second step was to visit the clubs in person and drop off cd's. Unfortunately as I previously explained, the majority of every night was spent being lost in the dark sketchy streets of Tokyo trying to find clubs the size of bedrooms. A few nights we had a gentleman who is half Japanese attempt and find the locations for us, but his personal vices included alcohol, hallucinogens and communism ; suffice to say he found us nothing but frustration. Even when we were capable of finding locations, we didn't speak enough Japanese to explain why we were there. If we had the fortune of meeting an English speaking employee, they would explain that no staff at the clubs themselves hire DJ's, only Japanese promoters do. So after several weeks of crying ourselves to sleep, we had a break. An owner of a chain of bars in Roppongi listened to our CD and liked our sound. After meeting several times with us he is giving us a one shot opportunity to prove ourselves in three of his clubs on Saturday the 13th of October. So if you're in Tokyo and would like to see our Japan debut, come down to The First Bar, WallStreet Bar, and WallStreet House as we'll be playing all night.]]> http://working.in-japan.jp/2007/10/the_first_break_1.html http://working.in-japan.jp/2007/10/the_first_break_1.html Entertainment Clubs Music Nightlife Roppongi Thu, 11 Oct 2007 00:58:57 +0900 Since the transplanting has now reached it's seventh month, I have begun to truly miss some things. These things, would have gone unnoticed, and un-missed, for the most part. A decent slice of pizza and a normal jar of peanut butter, bottoming out this list. Being from the south, however, I had began missing something that I was sure I would be unable to find in the land of the corn, mayo, egg, potato pizza. It was a weekend tradition among my friends that persisted for many a year. I speak, of course, of the flea market. Most of my friends were devout thrifters and loved the flea market for its endless mountains of cheap vintage clothing. Not to mention the hours afforded observing the colorful cross section of drowning victims in the human gene pool. Luckily, I have found a more then acceptable substitute. Ameyayoko market in Ueno is equal parts flea market, auction house, fresh market, thrift store, and labyrinthine game center. In other words, it's awesome. It is one of the places that I have been lucky to visit that feels wholly 'real'. It could do with the fact that Ueno has a bit of a reputation. The reputation is that Ueno is a little seedy, a little dirty, and a little sketchy after night fall. My kind of place. Ameyayoko market is exactly the sort of outdoor bazaar that one would expect to find nested comfortably between the train tracks and a reputation like that. Vendors hocking everything from tube socks and bargain clearance clothing; to high end knock off Prada handbags and matsutake mushrooms (10,000 yen for a pack of four mushrooms). The market possesses an atmosphere of anti-pretension. A welcome change from the vibe in most spots in Tokyo. The people are here to shop, not impress strangers with their Louis Vuitton clutches. I spent most of my time sifting through vintage denim jackets in the many stores specializing in now defunct American styles of the past. I also had the chance to try Ameyayoko's culinary submission in the realm of regional 'poor man's food'. Ameyayoko-yaki. Ueno's own interpretation of Okonomiyaki. Delicious, if I don't say so myself. The market is laid out in a Y, with no discernible organization whatsoever. Chaos suits Ameyayoko. The brave can venture off the beaten path in the hopes of finding better deals on fresh maguro, as well as anything else the mind can conjure. Pachinko and game centers are interwoven seamlessly above, below, and throughout the market. A breathing, sweating, shouting lesson in sociology, Ameyayoko is a thrift junky's wet dream. If you've got the time, set aside five or six hours to be moved along by the tide of humanity to the tune of a thousand shouted irasshaimases. To get to the market, go to Ueno station and look for the Ameyayoko-cho exit and hang a right after exiting the station. Enjoy. ]]> http://living.in-japan.jp/2007/10/where_to_go_if_you_have_both_t.html http://living.in-japan.jp/2007/10/where_to_go_if_you_have_both_t.html Shopping flea market game center shopping Ueno Tue, 02 Oct 2007 16:40:08 +0900 Our adventures in Japan started off on a difficult and tumultuous journey. My name is Lance Lasheras, and alongside my best friend Justin Kim, we decided to journey to Japan in order to pursue our dream of becoming world famous DJ's. The reason why we would choose to go to a country in which we know nothing about the culture, language, or industry is simply because our genre of music is very popular there. Our stories will chronicle our adventures in the country, in hopes to entertain others as well as possibly make some contacts while over here. Our first real adventure in Japan came in the form of picking up our equipment. Anyone who has Dj'ed before is aware of the sheer volume of electronic equipment necessary for the craft. While we moved into a home in Noborito, our equipment required to be picked up from the airport, almost two and a half hours away via train. The alternative was to pay an exorbitant amount of money to ride the bus, and being the frugal fools we are we thought we could save some money simply by taking everything via train. The journey to the airport was no challenge at all, giving us the confidence we needed to try and bring it all the way back. However we hit rush hour on the ride home. Those who have never experienced a packed train in Tokyo have no concept of the word claustrophobic. Not only do people squish together tighter then sardines, but they also push themselves on the train no matter how impossible you believe it to be. Our equipment easily took up the space of 15 people on the train, so everyone surrounding us was giving us the most evil glares possible. Let me preface this by stating that the Japanese culture is quite possibly the most polite culture in the world, and if you experience anger or disdain in any way you've done something horribly wrong. Needless to say the three hours it took to get home felt like a lifetime, using every elevator shaft we could find. When we were on trains people would squeeze around us like fungus to a tree until we literally couldn't move. That being said we made it home with everything and felt so happy to be there. The next week was spent getting everything in order to apply for jobs over the weekend. If you would like to hear the album we produced in our small Japanese room in order to get gigs, visit our web site. Hopefully our next story will feature some good news relating to tracking down jobs in the center of Tokyo.]]> http://living.in-japan.jp/2007/09/the_long_haul.html http://living.in-japan.jp/2007/09/the_long_haul.html Music & Art DJ fame music trains Fri, 28 Sep 2007 14:01:50 +0900 What a wonder it is to witness another country's music industry. Surely, I thought to myself Japan with it's Manga anime and crazy films and game shows would indeed be a melting pot of creativity and flair. I spent the last five years in England floating from band to band and eventually to acoustic night playing my way around drunken venues. Always with a key message in my head about my belief in music and how I would never "sell out" or "be an ego" when it came to becoming famous. On arrival in Japan I thought "f#ck it". I decided that this was a great place to "make it" in the music business so that in the future after i at least break the market I could start to record what I enjoy. I auditioned for a few western bands around tokyo but eventually found solace in an all Japanese band. Their idea was that they would crack the American market with a brand of J-Rock/Emo/Indie/Alternative music style. I have never really been in touch with the cool kids when it came to naming genres so I merely nodded when they suggested this particular style. The First stage was to write English lyrics for songs tunes that had been written by a very Japanese mind. I was given themes and drawn a host of pictures to describe the feeling in each verse, chorus or bridge. It was then my role to turn the pictures in to passable English poetic lyricism. The four tunes were all generally about a group of 25 year olds and their thoughts on what was wrong with the world. Those thoughts largely saying: Politicians are bad, People are corrupt, the pop industry is turning the average person into a dumb sheep and that there is no longer a place for true creativity because the laws of the land are now so quick to crush any radical thought. A fine idea in practise however I have yet to find anyone who can back up there beliefs. One of the songs was about the Asian conflict and the constant trouble between China and Japan. Why do we fight? Why does china hate Japan and why can't we all just be friends?(super cliche). The second stage was to practise regularly in one of the overpriced practise studios in the metropolis area. The studios consisted of recording equipment, microphones, amps and PA systems much the same as a western studio, however in the Japanese studios you're also surrounded by 3 walls of mirrors. I was horrified to find that the mirrors are there so you can "check your image" while your playing. I stood and gazed in ore through the other studio windows at the pretty boy hair done up to the nines "boybands"(which said they were Punku bando) staring at themselves while they jumped in unison and created a Blink 182 look. I was horrified to find out that all Japanese bands are like this. I know its harsh to stereotype but I'm hoping someone will read this and disagree with me, thus introducing me to a decent non commercial Japanese band. Go on I dare you....... The Third stage once we had perfected our 30 minutes song catalogue was to play in a live house. Great, I thought to myself finally I can expose the public to my strict problems with society. I'm sure it will be in a liberal bar filled with all classes and creeds who have come to the bar to be enlightened, such as it (sometimes but rarely) is in England. Alas I was sadly mistaken. When scouting the bar in Ebisu we found that the current live band were dressed as the toys in "Gundam Wing". A stage full of Japanese guys with there instruments, playing self written J-Pop whilst wearing perfect replica pilot outfits from the kids anime show. What was left of my shattered soul then found out that we had to indeed "pay-to-play" in all live houses around tokyo unless we wished to go to a gaijin bar and play on their open mic night. I was more than happy to do so , but was told by the band members that "it is not za Japanese way". After forking out nearly a hundred pounds to play I was then given a host of tickets to sell to all my gaijin buddies. My sales technique went as follows "come see my amateur JAP/ENG band play songs that you've never heard before at 4.30pm in ebisu, you'll surely be amazed at our "stage look". Oh and by the way its fifteen pounds a ticket. A similar price to a newly founded Brit band who had been signed and had at least one chart hit under their belt. This was not the way in I had hoped for. although believing that my pretty white face would be worshipped in some kind of Jesus like stature I still found that this was not enough to satisfy my now trodden down hope that being in a band in Japan is the right thing to do. My final idea is to have my eyes sown together as some sort of tribute to Ayumi Hamasaki, thus creating a niche market and becoming famous merely upon my look. This is the way of the Japanese music industry. Bitter as a lemon. Full Stop.]]> http://living.in-japan.jp/2007/09/making_it.html http://living.in-japan.jp/2007/09/making_it.html Music & Art band fame music Tue, 18 Sep 2007 16:51:33 +0900 12 days Hokkaido motorcycle touring are over - lots of memories remain. Let me share some of them with you. Going from Toon City (Shikoku) to Maizuru City (Kyoto-ken) for the ferry to Otaru City (Hokkaido) was my first challenge. Roughly 450 kilometers with a fully loaded bike. At Otaru I stayed at a friend's place, who is a log house builder. From there I went to Wakkanai, my home for two nights, enjoying the nature, great food, talking to other bikers and visiting places like Cape Soya, with Russia's Sakhalin island 43 kilometers away. Wakkanai to Shiretoko National Park past Lake Saroma was next. Long, straight roads with little traffic, along the coastline everything that makes a biker's heart beat faster. Two nights at the Raussu camp ground, watching wildlife, enjoying the Aidomari Onsen, and meeting more biker friends. From Raussu to Nemuro and Cape Nossapu on my way to Lake Akan. Meeting and talking with native Japanese, the Ainu - another great experience - less great the stay at the Biker's House! Lake Akan covered in clouds but I did see "Marimo", many of them sold to tourists are imported from Russia or "handmade". The next morning I left for Kushiro, spending two days there because of a typhoon. Visiting the city, seeing the Shitsugen Marsh, eating crab and departing for Kamifurano. Another 2 nights at a very nice campground, looking at lavender and sunflowers fields, and talking to more bikers from all parts of Japan. One more day left, so I went from Kamifurano past Sapporo to the Shakotan Peninsula. Eating "Uni-domburi", sleeping at a parking area and finally going back to Otaru to catch the ferry to Maizuru concluded my Hokkaido trip. After roughly 3.500 kilometers of touring I arrived at home, without any problems but lots of great impressions. Click here to see some pictures from the trip.]]> http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2007/09/hokkaido_motorcycle_touring.html http://sightseeing.in-japan.jp/2007/09/hokkaido_motorcycle_touring.html Parks/Nature Hokkaido motorcycle nature onsen Tue, 04 Sep 2007 12:00:48 +0900